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Making bread at home allows for a much higher nutritional value from the use of higher quality ingredients, less sugar and chemicals, and additives like fresh fruit and vegetables, leavens, nuts, etc.
Of all foods available for consumption, good bread ranks highest in symbolic value. It is one of the oldest foods, and provides such basic nutrition, including vitamin B, fibre, niacin, iron, and calcium. Making bread at home allows for a much higher nutritional value from the use of higher quality ingredients, less sugar and chemicals, and additives like fresh fruit and vegetables, leavens, nuts, etc. It is also extremely satisfying to watch a soppy piece of dough turn into a delicately inflated balloon, and turn into a golden loaf in the oven while filling the house with one of the most homey of smells. I decided to start baking bread when my first child was born, because I wanted him to grow up with that smell, and a strong sense of my care, and I could think of no more direct association. Although perhaps not as satisfying as kneading dough, a breadmaker makes the process much easier, doing the time consuming work of developing the gluten with the kind of patience I never had when doing it by hand. Dean Brettschneider and Lauraine Jacob’s Baker is about more than breads, and covers a range of different baked goods from tarts, muffins, cakes, biscuits, and even truffles, but it is the breads which really made my mouth water, and the itchy creative juices burn. Brettschneider is a professional baker and patissier works with Goodman Fielder Milling and Baking, advising professional chefs. Jacobs is a writer and reviewer who works for Cuisine Magazine, and has written a number of cookbooks. For Baker Brettschneider and Jacobs visited a range of well known commercial bakeries throughout Australian and New Zealand, obtaining star creations.
Baker contains some exceptional recipes. Some of these I had been coveting for some time, including La Tartine’s exceptional sourdough pumpkin bread, or Pandoro’s Pane Italiano, and others which are unusual enough to tempt experimentation such as Vinefruit and Rosemary Bloomer, Brettschneider’s own Chocolate and Pecan Sourdough, or Babka’s Wholemeal Vegetable and Sesame Loaf. I’ve always thought of Sourdough as the holy grail of breadmaking, and Baker contains over 8 different types of sourdough breads with a range of different leavens, some taking 2 days and one taking 7. The breads include ingredients as diverse as olives, peppers, herbs, chocolate, dried fruit, grains and nuts, and a range of flours, most readily available. All of the breads are achievable at home, although some take more devotion than your average baker has (that has never stopped me, although I’ve found sourdough success to be elusive).
In addition to the exquisite bread recipes, Baker contains a very detailed and extensive guide to ingredients, including things like composition and nutritional count; the differences between grains, flours, sugars, syrups, salts, eggs, fats, baking powders, fruits, nuts, cocoas, spices, yeasts, water, flavours, conditioners and improvers, and the impact of these ingredients on baking. There is information on equipment, formulas, and measurements. There are also detailed pages on the art and science of breadmaking, cake, sponge, and biscuit making, and pastries, in enough detail to assist the average baker in becoming a quick expert. I only have eyes for bread, and between the Ciabatta, the bagels (not easily available in country NSW, Australia), the Dovedale Rye and Linseed, the Fougasse Provencale, olive breads, hot cross buns, walnut and honey baton, and corn bread, I’m sure my breadmaker will soon be in overdrive. However, there are plenty of other recipes in this book, from the danish pastries, Panforte (definitely going to be my contribution this Christmas), vegetable and fruit brioches, kugelhof, gateau, muffins, gorgeous tarts, and biscuits. Most of these are decadent, and very rich, but also impressive. The photography is lush, done by Kieran Scott, the same award winning food photographer as Langbein’s Savour the Pacific, and the desserts look very tempting. Good job I’m not good at cakes, and that these are fairly complex ones, involving a reasonable amount of time and exactness (but worth it for the outcome), or I might lose my long running battle with my sweet tooth. Nonetheless, this is a wonderful reference guide, especially for those with a breadmaker, and tendency to try new recipes. I’ve never seen such a comprehensive, or detailed guide to making delicious breads.
